another thing to consider is if theres any point in starting your own system straight away? are there any other local crews who could do with a hand? there's never enough heads at the end of a night for lifting and shifting... the knowledge you could gain from just helping out now and then would be ...

Just to add.... i wouldn't worry too much about the power handling of your drivers as it's pretty much irrelevant... you want to look for drivers/cabinets that are efficient. Theres no point in carrying huge amplifiers around when you can get more SPL with less power. Drivers and cabinets are not re...

www.speakerplans.com

more knowledge than you can shake a stick at!!! have a read of the stickies and the newbie forums and most of your question will be answered...

also the yamaha sound reinforcement handbook is well worth a read

hope this helps,

d.

15's are designed to be used for bass/low mid only. it's something to do with the large diameter of the cone being unable to accurately reproduce frequencies above that (the suspension can not push-pull quickly enough, especially if the driver is a dual spider design as a lot of LF drivers are and ...

Akira Kiteshi wrote:Never use a 15" driver for anything above 250 - 300 hz unless it's dual concentric. The voicecoil is not designed to deal with those frequencies......

wuld you mind expanding on that a little? im not sure i follow you....

yes..... and no...... a 15" driver may well be able to reproduce frequencies up to 4kHz, but its likely to be the -3dB point on said drivers frequency response plot (possibly even -10dB). also the higher the frequency you ask a driver to reproduce, the more directional the output will become......

wouldn't mind a go myself if its not too late....

what are you trying to power with said amplifier??

apologies if i've mis-read your post jah pat but it sounds like the phono leads on one of your decks is misbehaving...
have you checked them?

i'm not familiar with the speaker in question so i'll give you a bit of a generalised info.... hope its neither too patronising or geeky... the voice coil of a loudspeaker exhibits both dc resistance, (what you can measure with a ohm-meter), and inductance. the impedance, (ac resistance), of an indu...

can you be a bit more detailed with regards to what was wrong with them in the first place and what you did to fix them??

i cant get my head round what you mean... sorry...

pesky college kids!!

i think im just going to have to be happy running my system as a hobby and getting a proper job...

hope the interview went well ludofuzz!!

when the amp is in bridge mode, MAKE SURE that you have NOT connected too low a resistance to the outputs, when in bridge mode the minimum resistance that you can hang off the amp will be higher than when in normal stereo or mono/parallel mode. As a rule of thumb most amps will be capable of powerin...

hope that was of some help...

Ohms are a measure of electrical resistance. loudspeaker drivers are resistive loads. ohms law states that Current is proportional to Voltage I= V/R, V=I x R, R=V/I, where R is resistance(measured in Ohms), I is current (measured in Amps). V, unsurpisingly, is Voltage. 1 Volt will push 1 Amp through...

marvelous, thats cracked it...

cheers chaps...

damn it!! that looks spot on, but should have specified, i dont use VST's... im currently using reason to play around with stuff, so a standalone piece of software, i think, would have to be the way to go...

thanks anyway, any other suggestions...

has anyone got a link to a piece of free software that will provide rta/spectral analysis of whats going on in a tune?

cheers...
d.

dpending on which model you have, which component has blown and where your based, you might be pleasantly surprised...

http://www.eltaxserviceshop.com/group.a ... rt=&page=1

shouldnt be a big job to replace the broken bits...

f*ck me, monster first post...