Post
by nousd » Tue Jan 22, 2013 11:38 am
not that this applies to any of you drylanders, particularly Finj, but feel my bile:
nowdays
everybody's a surfer
because they've been so clueless that they've paid to go to a surf school
en lieu of using their own nous and (duh!) gone out in the ocean & caught a wave
to stand up on a soft board or prone on a bodyboard under some dickhead's supervision
and become, magically, a surfer
so, despite the fact they couldn't survive in a decent swell without being leashed to some piece of plastic,
they can paddle out where ever there's a crowd in 2 foot slop & join them in being a surfer
yeah right
so now a surfer doesn't have the years of hold-downs
reef scars & gravel rash from gnarly wipeouts,
constantly educating them how not to take off and land
but they do know how to sashay along a beach holding a board just so
and talk the talk mimicking Fuel TV's sellout commentators in hipster pubs selling the Mexican beer flogged in surf mags
(even NY hip hop types are bragging about doing bodyboard tricks (ha!) at Montauk)
man, you guys wouldn't be a surfer's dunny paper
but keep trying, use your yuppie loot to surf Mundacca, Pipe, Bali, the Island, Margaret River
lose some skin, experience the fear, the underwater somersaults, the impact, the silence
and maybe,
give it ten years say
you might begin to understand what you have yet to give to be a surfer
landlubbers, imagine clownstep X 10
just don't get me started on goat boats and SUPs
Last edited by
nousd on Tue Jan 22, 2013 11:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
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