You have questions about studio monitors?
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spiro wrote:I might get my hands on some Genelec 8020A monitors to something around £500.
How does this price sound ?
Im mainly going to use them for mixing [the dj type, not the mix down type]
They look like they are portable . . .
Will taking them here and there shorten their life-span a lot ?
Is this a bit overkill ?
Would Samson resolv 80a at about £340, be more than enough for my use or do i get more for my money with the Genelec?
[also hoping to do some producing in not too far future]
i've got the 8030As - quality monitors with a lot of clarity mid-high range
i would say it is a bit of overkill for dj'ing and for that purpose i would get some good 'hi-fi' stuff and a sub
also, i know everyone says it but go and check them out - once you get into that price range monitors definitely start to take on characteristics and the differenece (eg) between mackie and genelec is mostly an issue of what you like subjectively not whats better on a global scale
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Stickying this would probably be a good plan!
A monitors bible perhaps?
A monitors bible perhaps?

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Nice post!
Interesting what you say about the Tapco S8s - I have a set with the SW10 sub and I've found them to be very good for producing on. A mix made on these I find is much more transferable and reliable than a mix on the Dynaudio BM5s (with Hafler amp) I have.
The S8s I'd say fall in between hi-fi and reference monitors in terms of the response and I'd much rather produce on them than on straight references because the sound can be just too clinical - need some feel.
Interesting what you say about the Tapco S8s - I have a set with the SW10 sub and I've found them to be very good for producing on. A mix made on these I find is much more transferable and reliable than a mix on the Dynaudio BM5s (with Hafler amp) I have.
The S8s I'd say fall in between hi-fi and reference monitors in terms of the response and I'd much rather produce on them than on straight references because the sound can be just too clinical - need some feel.
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went to the store today to check them out. Wasn´t too impressed.Chunkie wrote: i would say it is a bit of overkill for dj'ing and for that purpose i would get some good 'hi-fi' stuff and a sub
also, i know everyone says it but go and check them out - once you get into that price range monitors definitely start to take on characteristics and the differenece (eg) between mackie and genelec is mostly an issue of what you like subjectively not whats better on a global scale
nice sound and all that, but not that big a upgrade from what I have . . .
Think I need to use some more time, and get someone with a bit more punch in the bass.
I already have som ok hi-fi speakers; B&W CDM#2.
been using them for mixing for years now, and after getting used to play records here and there with good monitors, i think they have too little clarity to hear the details of what you do in the mix . . .
I have the Alesis Monitor Ones.
In my opinion I don't find the bottom end too 'boomy'. I find the overall frequency range fine
If you're mixing in a room which holds certain standing waves, then you're gonna hear all sorts of weird stuff. Getting the right conditions is near impossible with a bedroom set-up so even the best nearfield's money can buy wont sound as good as they could.
In my opinion I don't find the bottom end too 'boomy'. I find the overall frequency range fine
If you're mixing in a room which holds certain standing waves, then you're gonna hear all sorts of weird stuff. Getting the right conditions is near impossible with a bedroom set-up so even the best nearfield's money can buy wont sound as good as they could.
thanks a lot for the help!
There is a sale in a shop here in Oslo. But I was a bit late.
Now I rather use some time to get the right ones.
Will try to find somewhere to listen to the MR8´s
Any special tunes that can show strengths/weaknesses better than others ?
found "pass the red stripe" skream to be good for testing the subbass . . .
There is a sale in a shop here in Oslo. But I was a bit late.
Now I rather use some time to get the right ones.
Will try to find somewhere to listen to the MR8´s
Any special tunes that can show strengths/weaknesses better than others ?
found "pass the red stripe" skream to be good for testing the subbass . . .
Try this:
http://www.download3k.com/MP3-Audio-Vid ... rator.html
Will give you the chance to test the full range of your speakers.
http://www.download3k.com/MP3-Audio-Vid ... rator.html
Will give you the chance to test the full range of your speakers.
Just my 2 yen...
Monitors are a dimishing return, the more expensive you go up the scale.
The biggest difference you will find they have on your music, is when you get your first cheap pair.
Going from consumer shite, to a half decent set of monitors (even a hundred quid or whatever) is huge. The main thing is that you can trust these a lot more than stuff that has been designed to be fluffy sounding.
After you get this first pair, you should work with them for a while (at least a year).
Upgrades after this should revolve around how much you are into producing, the attention your tunes are getting, and also how much time and effort you are willing to put into learning about and actuating room treatments.
So, if you dont have monitors, get some cheap ones. If you DO, and want an upgrade, dont expect your music to have the same leap in quality that it did when you went from nothing to monitors.
All good though.

Monitors are a dimishing return, the more expensive you go up the scale.
The biggest difference you will find they have on your music, is when you get your first cheap pair.
Going from consumer shite, to a half decent set of monitors (even a hundred quid or whatever) is huge. The main thing is that you can trust these a lot more than stuff that has been designed to be fluffy sounding.
After you get this first pair, you should work with them for a while (at least a year).
Upgrades after this should revolve around how much you are into producing, the attention your tunes are getting, and also how much time and effort you are willing to put into learning about and actuating room treatments.
So, if you dont have monitors, get some cheap ones. If you DO, and want an upgrade, dont expect your music to have the same leap in quality that it did when you went from nothing to monitors.
All good though.
decklyn big up on the post, definately helped. I'm most likely going to get a pair of Fostex PM-1 MkII monitors simply because they are cheap and I like the sound of them. If anyone has a reason why I should NOT get them, please please let me know asap!!! I'm gonna get them tomorrow.
vadarfone your post on the previous page was very nicely put, can't stress that enough to people.
vadarfone your post on the previous page was very nicely put, can't stress that enough to people.
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What kind could I get for cheaper than or £150 that has good quality?
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unsure of the prices in the uk. sorry man!
check the posts here - there is good information. check your local market prices and decide accordigly.
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check the posts here - there is good information. check your local market prices and decide accordigly.

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didnt read rest of thread but if youve left out event products that needs to be corrected. ive got the event ALP5s and i love them. as with all nearfield monitors the sweetspot is very specific, but when you find it youll know it. cost 330 USD$ @ sweetwater.com.
they also have a line that is a step up, the TR8 which ive heard nothing but good reviews about. 8in instead of 5in like the alp. if i had the extra money i would have bought those
they also have a line that is a step up, the TR8 which ive heard nothing but good reviews about. 8in instead of 5in like the alp. if i had the extra money i would have bought those
Ok!!!! Well then! Your new to this aren't you? What you need are a pair of TRS (balanced) jack-jack leads, ofcourse this is dependent on on your soundcard having a TRS monitor o/p, does it?Zoosh wrote:How do you connect monitors to your PC ?
I thought the cables for monitors had chunky connectors, like the ones going from a guitar into an amp. Or are they just normal headphone connectors.
Cheers.
It moves you!
you can use phono if you want - 8th inch to phono adapter coming out of your on board sound card is ghetto as hell, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do!
Balanced connections have thier advantages and thier disadvantes.
Balanced connections can be sent via either XLR or TRS (Tip ring sleeve - same format as stereo) 1/4".
Balanced signal was invented to carry weak signal a long distance with minimal environmental noises/hum being picked up. Essentially what happens is this - you have a standard signal with a ground cable and a signal cable (here in called the 'hot' signal). In addition to that, balanced cabling takes a third signal cable, and using the 'hot' signal, takes a small ammount of it, inverts the phase, and runs it along side the hot and ground. This obviously takes some electronics, which can be noisy in and of themselves, particularly in inexpensive gear.
Now as the signal runs from source to destination, it will encounter some environmental factors that will cause noise and hum to be added to both our hot and cold signals. Note that at this point we have:
Hot signal: signal phase normal, hum phase normal, noise phase normal
Cold signal: quiet signal phase inverted, hum phase normal, noise phase normal
Once arriving at destination, the cold signal is phase inverted again, and mixed with the hot signal. The result is that the original signal is accentuated/turned up, while any hum and noise picked up in transit is cancelled out via phase cancellation.

Of course, we have more electronics at the destination end manipulating your signal, so this can be another source of noise.
I've heard people suggest that balanced cabling is not always better - it really depends on the quality of the gear you're using, you're environment, the distance cabling is travelling etc. Try both if you've got the ability to. I'm using my monitors unbalanced atm and notice no real noise relative to signal level.

Balanced connections have thier advantages and thier disadvantes.
Balanced connections can be sent via either XLR or TRS (Tip ring sleeve - same format as stereo) 1/4".
Balanced signal was invented to carry weak signal a long distance with minimal environmental noises/hum being picked up. Essentially what happens is this - you have a standard signal with a ground cable and a signal cable (here in called the 'hot' signal). In addition to that, balanced cabling takes a third signal cable, and using the 'hot' signal, takes a small ammount of it, inverts the phase, and runs it along side the hot and ground. This obviously takes some electronics, which can be noisy in and of themselves, particularly in inexpensive gear.
Now as the signal runs from source to destination, it will encounter some environmental factors that will cause noise and hum to be added to both our hot and cold signals. Note that at this point we have:
Hot signal: signal phase normal, hum phase normal, noise phase normal
Cold signal: quiet signal phase inverted, hum phase normal, noise phase normal
Once arriving at destination, the cold signal is phase inverted again, and mixed with the hot signal. The result is that the original signal is accentuated/turned up, while any hum and noise picked up in transit is cancelled out via phase cancellation.

Of course, we have more electronics at the destination end manipulating your signal, so this can be another source of noise.
I've heard people suggest that balanced cabling is not always better - it really depends on the quality of the gear you're using, you're environment, the distance cabling is travelling etc. Try both if you've got the ability to. I'm using my monitors unbalanced atm and notice no real noise relative to signal level.


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